Japanese Food from International World
The tradition of cuisine is deeply rooted in the nation’s culture. We cannot live without eating, so dietary culture is the foundation of our life. It is a good way to introduce and explain culture from the aspect of food, and Japan can be said that it is one of the country succeed in spreading their culture through the promotion of Japanese cuisine. According to the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MAFF) in Japan, there are about 25,000~30,000 Japanese restaurants around the world. (The Current Situation Of Japanese Restaurants In the World) Almost people know Japanese food and they can use chopsticks very well. Japanese food is getting popular more and more. However, is this Japanese cuisine and image of it actual and correct? Now, Japanese culture of food is exposed to danger of misunderstanding. There are so many wrong Japanese restaurants sometimes owned by foreign people and they serve not Japanese food. There are conflicts between local food industry and Japanese one. Therefore, Japan should promote Japanese food to abroad appropriately. I researched about this issue and made a survey of the Japanese food around the world by the interview to foreign people.
Firstly, what is the definition of Japanese food? In her book, A companion to the anthropology of Japan, Jennifer Ellen Robertson says “Japanese cuisine is best known abroad for its emphasis on the freshness and quality of ingredients, and beauty of presentation…together with a stress on them and harmony between the food, the vessel, the setting, and the season in which food is served.” Also, she mentions that the Japanese food culture is multicultural one and it embraces foreign ingredients and dishes, along with an impulse to domesticate them. According to my survey, foreign people’s impression to Japanese food is mainly…(not yet)
In the documentary, The Japanese Table Sushi: Now a Global Taste (NHK program), it is said that eating Sushi is one of the social status symbols in Europe and US. Also, in the past, many people shied the way to eat raw fish and thought it was savage, but after few decades, eating raw fish is taken as a matter of course. Sushi boom changed the perception in the world. However, when I went to Vermont states in US for SEA program, I had a strange experience of Sushi. After few weeks I arrived there, I got tired of American junk and heavy food, so I was eager for “natural” Japanese food. I went to an Asian restaurant in downtown and ordered “Sushi-role with soup.” I imagined the sushi role with tuna and miso soup, but in fact, they served the Sushi role with fried shrimp and Tom yum goon (it’s from Thailand)! Also, my friend from South Korea said Korean people eat sushi with Gochujang (it is Korean spicy source) According to my survey, foreign people ate Sushi as their first experience of Japanese food, and it is their favorite now. However, there are so many wrong Sushi restaurants such as mine, so their experience may no be possibly the real Japanese food. There are an increasing number of Japanese restaurants outside Japan but they do not use Japanese ingredients or cooking methods and still continue to operate under the guise of a Japanese restaurant.
To protect Japanese culture against these issues and increase consumer confidence in Japanese restaurants and promote the export of Japanese products, MAFF tried to make a system of certification of Japanese restaurants in foreign countries. This is called “Sushi Police” by world media, and some countries criticized it. As a result, MAFF gave up to make a certain system and entrust to NPO to certificate them. Similar system is put into effect in France and Thailand, but actually it is difficult to make a border which distinguish the right restaurant and wrong one. Also, such restaurants called “wrong” may adapt Japanese food to local taste. It can be said as the fusion of cultures. It is not “wrong” thing. Japan should pay attention to the diversity of culture and understand it. Nowadays, MAFF holds a conference and attempts to make Japanese food be on the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage to press for improvement in quality and reliance of Japan. French, Mediterranean, and Mexican foods have been already registered, and Korean court food will be next November. Japanese government should carry out this project.
Japan has a wonderful, beautiful, and sensitive food culture. Japan can bring it abroad to get rid of misunderstanding or hatred toward Japan and it is also for more prosperity of Japanese economy. However, we have to pay attention to the balance between our culture and local one. Therefore, the government should protect Japanese food culture and promote it to the world, but also they should pay attention to the diversity of culture and understand it.
No comments:
Post a Comment